Sights and sounds of real life in Haiti

     You think you've seen everything until you come to Haiti and realize you haven't really seen anything at all, or at least nothing that could ever compare to "real life" here.
     I've come to realize that "different " isn't bad, especially when it comes to my expectations about standards of living. "Real life" in Haiti is difficult, and Haitians work hard to get by every day. At the bridge by the children's home, men and women line up at sunrise, or earlier, hoping they'll be chosen to get a day's work in the rice fields. If they're lucky, along with a tedious, difficult day's work in the hot sun, they'll get a meal and around $2USD for their efforts.     
     From the rice fields to the crowded, noisy streets of Verrettes or Saint Marc, it is pretty easy to see that people are trying their best to make a living, just like anyone else would, but the conditions are indescribably difficult. On market days, Wednesdays and Saturdays, Karen said some of the sellers start their long trek down the mountain as early as 2a.m., in order to get a good spot to set up their goods, as early as 7a.m. Their umbrella covered stalls fill the sidewalks in Saint Marc, with people selling everything from fruits and vegetables, to new or used items of clothing, to bicycle tires, hardware goods, and mattresses. Voices in Creole argue over prices, and sellers call out to potential buyers. Women carry pop for sale in metal bowls balanced on top of their heads, as they strategically, carefully, navigated the crowded sidewalks that eventually disappeared into the main street. MAYBE, if they were lucky, they might have ended up with a few Haitian dollars, not U.S., to take home at the end of the day....
     And then there are the motos...Unlike home, it's motos, not pedestrians, who have the right of way, and they are absolutely everywhere in the streets of Saint Marc--they litter the streets like yellow cabs in New York City, and they seem to appear from every possible open space on the street. Motos in Haiti are also used as taxis, so it's in the drivers' best interests to move as quickly as possible, not necessarily as safely as possible, through the streets. Most motos carry at least 3 people, including the driver, and it's not unusual to see 4 people breeze by, and they might even be carrying a full bag of rice, or flour, that takes up the space of another person!
    Walking and driving through the crowded streets of Saint Marc, however, is nothing compared to a trip to the Saturday morning market in Verrettes. This is the one point of the trip where I have to take a deep breath and put my trust and faith in Karen to get us through the "corn maze" like path of stalls. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't nervous, and a little afraid, going through here, because we can only walk in single file, and the footing is not always stable. Also, people are not necessarily thrilled to see us, and it's not a good idea to stop anywhere, although Karen did manage to get a quick picture of me and Mackenzie, despite some protests nearby.
     The walk is rocky, noisy, and beyond crowded. Going through the market on foot is like two cars trying to pass each other on a one way street, but, on a wing and a prayer, we headed out--Karen in front, Mackenzie sandwiched in the middle, and me, the ol' veteran, pulling up the rear!
      The smell of raw meat in metal bowls in over 40° heat was overwhelming and would make you gag. It was a "breathe through your mouth, keep your eyes open and straight ahead" kind of walk, but another great learning experience of "real life" in Haiti for Mackenzie, because, being the minority in the crowd, we were often the subject of many pointed fingers, stares, and quiet giggles. For some Haitian children, we may have been the first "blancs" (whites) that they'd seen, so we were quite a novelty for them. So, as nerve racking as that walk was, I told Mackenzie it was another life lesson--when you're part of the majority for so long, you need to feel what it's like to be "uncomfortable" sometimes.
        Saturday was quite a day for us. Mackenzie said that, as much as he's loving Haiti, he would be okay with never going through the market again, but I told him that's what happens when you get to experience the sights and sounds of "real life" in Haiti! I'm glad we're here together, with Karen to show us the way! Until the next time, hugs from us in Haiti
    

Salt water and sand between our toes!

      When you've grown up surrounded by the ocean, there's nothing better than the feeling of sand between your toes and the sound of waves crashing on the beach, unless you happen to be in the turquoise, warm waters of the Caribbean Sea. 

     Coming to HATS the past two years, I was always in awe of the amazing beach view as we'd make the drive from Port Au Prince to Deschapelles, so this year, when Karen gave us the chance for a beach day, I couldn't say "yes" quick enough. But there's a story behind the beach day...

     Not long after I booked our tickets back in March, Karen messaged me with a warning--"You might want to change your tickets," she said, "because there is a "fet" (party/celebration) for the first 6 nights that you and Mackenzie will be here!"

   How bad could it be? I've chaperoned my fair share of high school dances over the years and lived to tell about it, so this "fet" couldn't be THAT bad, could it? Mackenzie and I figured it would just be another part of our adventure. But it turns out, yes, it certainly could be THAT bad! Not even noise cancelling headphones, coupled with extra strength melatonin, could come close to drowning out the so- called "music" blaring from the speakers. Imagine a high school dance, but one that was being held outside, and it's right in your backyard, on church owned property, even. Then add a guy on a microphone who screams like he's the devil personified, then throw in enough bass that makes your insides vibrate. That might give you a SMALL sense of how loud it is. Now I understand why Karen tries not to spend any time here in July. What started out as a 6 day party years ago, has turned into a full 12 day blowout that would make your hair curl if you could be here to experience it! The night at the hotel was a welcome chance for us all to sleep in peace for more than just a few hours, and see another part of Haiti while we're at it.

     And now, back to reality. We hoped and prayed the thunder, lightning, and torrential rain would last long enough so that there would be no party tonight,  but no such luck! We're back to the very loud singing, a LOT of bass, the devil on the mic, and heads at HATS buried under pillows! We're expecting a very late night of noise, because even though this is supposed to be the last weekend of the "fet," we're thinking they'll be trying to squeeze every last party minute out of the weekend that they can...

     So, with melatonin in hand and headphones in place, I'm hoping for dreams of sand between my toes and waves crashing on the beach! Hugs from us in Haiti 💕

Surviving the airport at Port au Prince!

     As a mother, the decision to take 14 year old Mackenzie on a trip to Haiti was not made lightly. TELLING my kids the adventure stories from Haiti is far different from being there and seeing it with your own eyes. There are some minor safety issues, along with the very real experience of culture shock--from the poor living conditions, to the reality of what true poverty looks like when it comes to daily life for children and adults.
     This year, though, Sandy and I figured Mackenzie knew enough to make his own decision. It didn't take him long to figure out this was something he wanted to do with me, and I was both excited and nervous--Haiti is no Disneyland, although it does certainly come with its own cast of characters--they're just not in costume!
     No amount of explaining, or warning, could have ever prepared anyone, let alone a young teenage boy, for the scene we experienced this year at the arrivals area in the overheated, unairconditioned, overcrowded airport that is Port au Prince. More than 200 people waiting for the average of at least 2 checked bags per person, makes for some chaotic, never before seen moments at the baggage carousel. One woman was pushed and jostled so much, she actually fell down in front of the carousel...
     My original "plan" was for Mackenzie to look after the cart, while I waited for our 5 pieces of luggage. Well, that changed as quickly as Cape Breton weather, and I didn't mind one single bit. Mackenzie and I switched "roles," and he quickly assumed the position as chief baggage retriever, while I hustled through the crowd of Haitians and the voices of Creole, to pay $4USD for 2 highly sought after baggage carts. With 4 planes on the ground, it meant there were more than 400 people searching for carts and bags all at once. This scene is not good for anyone with high blood pressure, or heart conditions! I barely survived myself, because it took a full hour by the time our last bag made its appearance on the belt! That son of mine made me proud, though, as I watched from a safe distance behind him. Not only did he manage to get all our bags off, he helped another woman who was struggling to retrieve her own bags. He stepped up when I really needed him, and I didn't even have to ask. 
     The airport "excitement" didn't end once we got our bags, though. We had to wind our way through the other couple of hundred people, pushing two carts and pulling our two carry ons. These carts are not meant for making quick turns, or any turns at all, for that matter. But then we had to find our way into the enormous line to pass the approval of Haitian National police, before we could make our final escape from the secured area, and begin the hunt for Daniel, our police escort, and our driver.
      Unless you had a day like we did, you can't even begin to imagine  the excitement and sense of relief at seeing the Boston Red Sox hat and friendly Haitian smile on the face that is Daniel! I hugged him and our driver, whether they were ready for it or not! But again, that was just the beginning of the last part of the anxiety that goes with getting out of the airport. Moving like we were hitting a boxing day sale at the mall, except the temperature was well over 40°, we needed to keep Daniel and our driver in our sight, which was no easy task, either. I have never in my life been so grateful to step into an air conditioned van to begin what would be a 3 hour adventure/drive to the smiling faces at our home away from home. Seeing the blue steel door slide open and pulling into the compound to those beautiful, smiling faces, made all the other chaos of the day melt away. 
     So, even though I got run into by a few stray carts, and elbowed by some somewhat aggressive, distressed Haitians at the airport, I couldn't help but have a smile on my face, and a heart full of happiness, because this home In Haiti fills me up, and that boy of mine made me one proud mama! The adventure continues tomorrow with a trip to the beach!  Hugs from us in Haiti

Haiti, here we come!

     Our day has finally come, and Mackenzie and I are on the last part of our journey to Haiti to try and "make a difference" together. We managed to get all 5 of our checked bags with 250lbs of donations safely through security, AND without any extra fees! ("High 5" to Air Canada for that, and let's just hope they arrive on the carousel when we land!) Although the delays made for a long day, meeting Rick Mercer at the airport in Montreal, then having pizzas and brownies delivered to the hotel from Domino's, made everything in our world right again!
     One of the best parts of making this trip is the incredible people I have come in contact with, both at home, and in Haiti. Karen and the children are of course the reason I love going back, and I feel like I learn a little more about myself each time I go. I do miss my own boys, but that's another thing I'm so thankful for--a great husband and my parents who keep things going at home!
     I told Mackenzie that our next big challenge will be the airport in Port au Prince. Retrieving your baggage from the carousel, like driving in Haiti, is not for the faint of heart! Mackenzie has agreed to be on "cart duty," while I take care of baggage retrieval. With more than 200 people on our flight alone, it makes for a whole lot of congestion and jockeying for position at the baggage belt, which makes the one at Sydney airport look big. I must say, though, since it's my third time, I feel like I'm getting a little better at it...
     We are both pretty excited, although I'm not sure if Mackenzie's feet have actually touched the ground in the last few days, but being able to make this trip comes from the help of so many people. We are carrying a little piece of all of you who have reached out with your support, whether prayerful or financial, or a donation of some other sort. I am always overwhelmed at the kindness of people who take time to wish us well, and you can't imagine how encouraged we both are by all of it. I am truly grateful that Mackenzie is along for the "ride" this year, and I know it will be unforgettable for both of us! Stay tuned, because, Haiti, here we come! 